conrad anker
"Life is a circle, and it is our duty to keep the circle spinning. This is my spin"
Conrad Anker’s specialty, simply put, is climbing the most technically challenging terrain in the world. This quest has taken him from the mountains of Alaska and Antarctica to the big walls of Patagonia and Baffin Island and the massive peaks of the Himalaya. Conrad’s Antarctic experience spans a decade, with first ascents in three regions. In 1997, Conrad teamed up with Alex Lowe and Jon Krakauer to climb Rakekniven, a 2,500-foot wall in Queen Maud Land. In the Sentinel Range, Conrad climbed the Vinson Massif via three new routes. His climbs in Pakistan’s Karakoram include the west face of Latok II along the “Tsering Mosong” route, which begins at the same height as the summit of Denali, climbs 26 pitches on a vertical cliff and then tops out at 23,342 feet. In 1998, Conrad and Peter Croft made a first ascent of Spansar Peak via a 7,000-foot ridge in one day. In Patagonia, he climbed the three towers of the Cerro Torre Massif. On Yosemite’s El Capitan he joined Steve Gerberding and Kevin Thaw to establish “Continental Drift,” a steep nail-up on the right side. And in Zion National Park, Mugs Stump and Conrad first climbed the intimidating “Streaked Wall.”

In May of 1999, as a member of the Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition, Conrad discovered the body of George Mallory, the preeminent Everest explorer of the 1920s. The disappearance of Mallory and Sandy Irvine on their summit bid in June 1924 is one of climbing’s great mysteries, and Conrad’s discovery and analysis of the find has shed new light on the pioneering climbs of the early expeditions. Conrad graduated from the University of Utah and lives in Bozeman, Montana, with his wife and three sons. He is a board member of the Conservation Alliance, the American Alpine Club and the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation. He stays in shape by climbing, running and skiing.
Birthdate: 27/11/1962

Nickname: Radster

Adventure: The open road

Favorite The North Face® Product: Prism, Optimus Down Jacket

Proudest Moment: Seeing the Khumbu Climbing School take off

Cause(s): Conservation, alliance, global, giving, and the environment in general

Spouse/Partner's Name: Jennifer Leigh Lowe Anker

Children's Name(s): Max, Sam, and Isaac

Pet's Name/Type: Dogs Happy and Leroy

Best Friend(s) Name(s): Jimmy Chin and Peter Croft

Favorite Cook and Dish: My wife - Apple Pie

Favorite Movie: Any James Bond

Favorite Snack: Organic cashews

Favorite Book: The New York Times Book of Knowledge

Favorite Magazine: Seed

Favorite Moment In History: When George Mallory’s body was found, opening up keys to the past, and Hermann' Buhl's ascent of Nanga Parbat

Most Recent Epic: Meru

Most Humbling Moment: Loosing Alex Lowe. I was very sad!

Ambition: Be a teacher

Weakness: Sushi

Three Things People Should Know About Me:
1. Compassionate
2. Kind
3. Caring

Inspiration Within the Sport: Friendship, Challenge, Risk, Teamwork, Wilderness, Excitement

Dream Vacation: Morocco

Three Things I Always Pack: Knife, Lip Balm, Lighter

. Ak Su, Russian Tower, Russian Shield, VI 5.10 A3 7/95 nr
. Karakoram, W Face Latok II, 7,108 m. VII 5.10 A3 7/97 nr s
. Karakoram, Spansar Peak, 5,850 m., VI 5.11 7/98 fa
. Khumbu, Ama Dablam winter 90, Lobuche solo, Chomolungma, Tibet, 8,850 m. 5/99
. Kishtwar, E Face, Kalidaha Spire, 6,000 m., VI 5.10 A2 9/88 fa
. Tien Shan, Khan Tengri, 6,995 m., Invitation Speed Climbing Competition 9/93

. Gurney Peak, SE Face, Kichatna Spires, VI 5.10 A3 5/87 nr
. NW Face, Mt. Hunter 7/89 nr

. Rakekniven, Snow Petrel Wall, Queen Maud Land, VI 5.10 A3 1/97 fa
. Vinson Massif, Sentinel Mountains, 4,897 m. South Face nr 12/92, Ski Descent West Face (2,000 m. at 45), West Ridge 1/99 nr, East Face nr 01/01
. Craddock, Sentinel Mountains, 4,659 m. 12/92 fa
. Tyree, Sentinel Mountains, 4765 m 12/97

Baffin Island, Canada:
. Stump Spire, Sam Ford Fiord, IV 5.11 7/92 fa

. Badlands, Torre Egger VI 5.10 A3 12/94 nr
. Tomahawk (nr)/Excocet, Cerro Standhart, V 5.9 WI 5 2/96

. Continental Drift, El Capitan, VI 5.10 A4 97 nr

Zion, Utah:
. Stump/Anker Route, Streaked Wall, VI 5.11 A4 4/90 fa

Films/Media Highlights:
. Gripped magazine: Baffin adventures with Tom Valis, 2004
. Outdoor Life Network: "Global Extremes Everest Challenge," 2003
. National Geographic Television: "Deadly Fashion," 2003
. National Geographic magazine: "Tibet Trek," 2003
. NOVA: “Mountain of Ice," 2002
. Outdoor Life Network: "To the Edge," 2000
. NOVA: “The Shackleton Story,” IMAX film, 2000
. NBC Expedition Series: "Shishapangma," 1999
. BBC, NOVA, ZDF: "Lost on Everest," 1999
. National Geographic Television: “Queen Maud Land," 1997
. Cliffhanger Productions: "On Ice" 1995
. The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory, by Dave Roberts (book)
. Siguniang Climbing Expedition
. Meru Shark's Fin

. Shishapangma Expedition
. Eastern Sierras