"I live near my home mountain, it's the Matterhorn. I think it is the most beautiful mountain in the world"
The mountains have always been home to Hansjoerg having been born in, and lived all his life in, Austria. It was natural to him to want to learn to climb those mountains surrounding him, and he first climbed as a young boy at the age of 12.
In the beginning, Hansjoerg concentrated on alpinism, but when he reached the age of 20, he started to focus more on sport and alpine climbing. He is perhaps best known for his unbelievable free solo ascent of The Fish (otherwise known as "Il Pesce" or "Weg durch den Fisch") in 2007 - a stunning 37 pitch slab on the south face of the Marmolade in the Italian Dolomites.
His incredible achievements in climbing continue. In 2010, together with his best friend and climbing partner, Much Mayr, he has made the first ascent of "Waiting for Godot" on the Torres del Paine in Patagonia, repeated Alexander Huber's "Pan Aroma" on the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, and made the first ascent of "Tingeling" on the Blamann tower in Norway. In 2011 he made the first free ascent of “Hallucinogen Wall” in Black Canyon/Colorado and opened “Bruderliebe” on Marmolada South Face in the Dolomites.
Hansjoerg has an incredible energy and passion, and has great motivation - as Much Mayr explained, "a rest day is for him like a punishment, and he has an overwhelming enthusiasm." Living in the moment, this is his dream.
Birthdate: 18th February 1984
Home: Umhausen, Austria
Favourite destination: new rock
Favourite Mountain: Marmolada / Dolomites
Favourite Book: "Schiffbruch mit Tiger" by Yann Martel
Favourite Films: Blood Diamond, Match Point, 500 Days of Summer
Favourite Food: sweet Austrian dishes
Greatest Fear: being too far above the last protection
How I Relax: coffee sessions, reading, meeting friends, skiing, running
Philosophy: Living in the moment
What inspires you? The old generation of the climbers with their overwhelming creativity of exploration.
Words to live by: life is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you're gonna get
- Sportclimbing up to 8c+ and first ascents up to 8c
- Gritstone/UK up to E8/6c
- Alpine climbs up to 8c and many first free ascents of alpine multi-pitch routes
- Alpine First Ascents in the Dolomites up to 8b/8b+ (Bruderliebe, Silberschrei, …)
- Alpine First Ascents in Patagonia, Pakistan, Oman, Norway
- First Ascent of “The Door” ca. 650m, proposed 8b, Perfection Valley, Baffin Island, 2012
- El Capitan free climbs (El Nino, Golden Gate except Monster Offwidth)
- Expeditions to Trango Valley/Pakistan, Cochamo Valley/Chile, Perfection Valley/Baffin Island
- Free Solo "Pesce" and “Tempi Moderni”, both on Marmolada South Face
- Free Solo “Bayrischer Traum” and “Locker vom Hocker”, both on Schüsselkarspitze South Face
- First Free Ascent of “L’ultimo dei Paracadutisti” (8b+, 750m) – Marmolada Southwest Face