renan ozturk
atleta
Renan's accomplishments include the discovery of ancient artwork and human remains in his 2007 expedition to mustang
Renan discovered his passion for climbing while attending Colorado College in Colorado Springs, Colorado. As a member of the small community of climbers there, he honed his skills, deepened his connection to the sport of climbing and dreamed of the remote and beautiful places it could take him. Renan graduated with a degree in biology but not before traveling to Nepal to study the language and culture of a country to which he is still intimately connected. During the last three years Renan has spent multiple seasons climbing in Indian Creek, Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Squamish, and the Bugaboos. The stunning scenery of these locations serves as inspiration for Renan’s other passion, his artwork, which is creating as much of a buzz as his rock skills. Footage of Renan’s onsight solo of the 300-foot North Six Shooter tower in the Utah desert can be seen in the current climbing film Return2Sender: Parallelojams.
Nickname: Naner

Favorite Destination: Himalaya

Favorite The North Face® Product: Catalyst Jacket Prototype: a durable lightweight down jacket with a hood!

Proudest Moment: Any expedition where I can combine success in art, climbing, and philanthropy.

Cause(s): KCS, Access Fund, Porter Rights in the Himalayas.

Words To Live By: Carpe Diem, Namoste, and Ke Garne? (Nepali for: What to do?)

Favorite Snack: Banana with almond butter

Most Humbling Moment: Traveling to Kashmir and experiencing an earthquake in a 50 year war zone.

Ambition: Alpine style free ascent of an unclimbed giant rock spire.

Inspiration Within the Sport: People who thrive even when they fail, things done in a light weight minimal style, free onsight ascents.

Three Things I Always Pack: Sketchbook, black Bic Yosemite pen, and a hooded sweatshirt.
Bugaboos Provincial Park, B.C.:
. Grade V first ascent: "Soul Cinders," 5.11r C2, 20+ pitches on the South Howser Tower; climbed alpine style, camp to camp, in one day, with no hammer or pins.
. Grade V free first ascents: South West Pillar, 5.12r, and Italian Pillar, 5.11+, 20+ pitches on the Minaret of the South Howser Tower; both lines climbed alpine style, camp to camp, in one day, with all pitches led and followed free.
. Second one-day ascent of "All Along the Watchtower," VI 5.11+ C2 or 12b, 36 pitches on the North Howser Tower.

Yosemite, CA:
. Team free ascent of regular NW face of Half Dome, VI 5.12; Renan led all cruxes, which were followed free by Cedar Wright. They topped out in seven hours.
. Higher Cathedral Rock, V 12b, onsight second ascent, first team free ascent.
. Nineteen-hour link-up of The Nose of El Capitan, VI, 32 pitches, and regular NW face of Half Dome, VI, 23 pitches. Youngest team to achieve this enchainment.

Indian Creek, UT:
. First on-sight free solo of "Lightning Bolt Cracks," 5.11, North Six Shooter (featured in current climbing film . Return2Sender: Parallelojams).
. 5.12+ onsights of "Disco Machine Gun," "Slice and Dice," "Twin Cam."

Joshua Tree, CA:
. Free solos of "Spider Line" (11+) and "Hot Rocks" (5.11c).
. 20 classic J-Tree 5.11s in one day, 5 classic J-Tree 5.12s in one day.

Other:
. Ruth Gorge, Alaska: Alpine style free ascent of the west face of the Eye Tooth (to true summit!).
. Khumbu himalaya: Losar (half dome sized waterfall ice feature)
. Canyonlands, UT: one-day link-up of Monster Tower and Washerwoman Tower, leading every pitch.
. Southern Utah: Texas Tower ascent, led the notorious 11+ offwidth.
. El Potrero Chico, Mexico: one-day free ascent of "El Sendero Luminoso," V 12+, with 12 pitches of 5.12, on-sighted two 12+ cruxes, led the whole route.
. Cholaste, Khumbu Himalaya, Nepal: self-supported alpine-style attempt from north side
. Red Rocks, NV: one-day onsight link-up of "Cloud Tower," (original route) "Levitation 29," (to top of crux pitch) "Epinephrine." (topped out route)
. Eldorado Canyon, CO: "The Evictor," 12+r redpoint.
. Cathedral Ledge, NH: "The Prow," 5.11+, and "Wild Women in Love," 5.12a, both onsight.
. Cannon Cliff, NH: VMC direct grade V 5.11, "Labyrinth Wall," V 5.11+, "Moby Grape," IV 5.8; onsight free solo.
. Trango Tower, Pakistan: "In a day" alpine style attempt. Led first 12 pitches of "Eternal Flame" free in 3.5 hours, onsighting to 5.12a at 18,000 ft.
. Rigged for and appeared in climbing film Return2Sender: Parallelojams, by Sender Films, 2005
. Rock and Ice, July 2005, issue 143: "Spotlight" article featuring climbing and artwork
. Rock and Ice, June 2005, issue 142: write-up in article of "bold" climbers
. Rock and Ice, October 2005, issue 146: "breaking news" write-up and photo
. Rock and Ice, March 2004, issue 131: photo and write-up on Bugaboos season
. Gripped Magazine, Alpine News on Bugaboos season
. Alpinist 4, "Climbing Note" published and photos within a feature article
2009:
. Vertical Carnival

2008:
. Barefoot Among Czechs
. The Caves of Mustang: Vanishing Secrets of The Forbidden Kingdom
. Siguniang Climbing Expedition
. Meru Shark's Fin

2007:
. Shishapangma Expedition
. Eastern Sierras
. Alaska Alpine Style
. Trango Passion
. Ancient Civilizations, New Routes in Kathmandu